Tag: restaurants
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CALIFORNIA – Brumaire 2019 (and more on natural wine in NorCal)
I often wonder if natural wine in the USA has sort of passed me by – as a concept, as a cultural phenomenon, as a business opportunity. The phrase itself had eked its way into select US wine circles – but no further – when I moved to Paris in 2009. When I revisited Los […]
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BEAUJOLAIS – Une Table Dans Le Verger, Marchampt
In a recent article for London-based culinary magazine Root & Bone I wrote about Marchampt, a remote, high-altitude village in the far west of the Beaujolais-Villages appellation, home to a trio of talented natural winemakers. Beyond its stellar native terroir, Marchampt is also distinguished, since 2017, by its local restaurant, Une Table dans le Verger, […]
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Goguette, 75011
Five years ago I wrote a piece for PUNCH describing how Paris’ then-nascent cocktail culture was liberating young Parisiens from the cultural baggage of the native wine scene. But as Paris cocktail bars became more professionalized, and as cocktails normalized in the City of Light, the trend reversed. Natural wine, in particular – by dint […]
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Le Port de By, Grièges
Great country restaurants can offer a transportive experience of bygone culture: regional cuisines presented intact, or nearly so, despite rural depopulation, ecological destruction, and myriad other economic factors eroding culinary heritage the world over. Such restaurants are rare in the Beaujolais, but they became less rare early last year when restauratrice Cecile Ducroux, former owner […]
not drinking poison 